1963 Original Jetfire 4 speed

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Viewing 10 posts - 21 through 30 (of 94 total)
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  • #15138
    oaklyss
    Participant

    Original starter wire loom cover has missing section. A place called Restoration Supply Co has them in all sizes. They also have the white braided cover for the choke tube on automatic cars

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    #15147
    oaklyss
    Participant

    Confirmed that this car has the Jetfire specific 10” clutch.

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    #15149
    JimNoel
    Participant

    Good deal Greg! It also appears that you have the three finger style pressure plate. If you have intentions to replace the pressure plate, I recommend that you have the three finger one rebuilt. Current day replacements are the diaphragm style and are not as good! Be sure that all spring locations have springs. (non-Jetfire pressure plates only used 6 springs instead of nine.)

    Attachments:
    #15152
    jensenracing77
    Participant

    I just had my clutch and pressure plate rebuilt by Clutch Dynamics in Lansing Michigan. He charged me $172 total with shipping. Mine was the second Jetfire clutch he rebuilt in 6 months. I have not driven it yet but it looks good. If you send it in to rebuilt by someone I would tell them you don’t want it painted. I didn’t think of it and they painted mine blue.

    #15157
    oaklyss
    Participant

    I just checked it, it has 9 springs. I have a rebuild place here- Southland Clutch-that will be doing it.
    What are we using for throw out bearing, part number, or source?

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    #15159
    jensenracing77
    Participant

    I would like to know as well what people are using. My original one is nice as could be and I am seriously thinking about reusing it. Not sure if NOS would be easy to find or not but I suspect that it is the same for many years and applications. I still need to look into it myself.

    #15706
    graytoad
    Participant

    Been reading your story here. I have been wondering how many 63 4 speed cars are still out there and on the road. We just purchased an original, rust free survivor 4 speed out of California that was recovered by Sierra Auto Restoration that had been in storage for 33 years: & I managed to sweet talk them into selling it to me as is. Anyway: will be watching your progress and I will start a thread for ours too. Keep me posted on the throw out bearings please: have not tried to investigate that yet. Also, do you have any tips on how to remove the distributor off the chain cover?
    Sandy (& Steve) Gray
    Hamilton Ontario, Canada

    #15710
    oaklyss
    Participant

    Please show us some photos! The distributor is removed by taking out the hold down bolt and retainer.
    I just replated several bolts using Eastwood electroplating kit. Also did several brackets and they came out great.
    I will be using the cold method of black phosphate using magnesium oxide and distilled water on the motor bolts.
    My inner fender aprons were in good shape but fragile. A company called Rubber the Right Way has the exact rubber for these.

    Attachments:
    #15713
    oaklyss
    Participant

    What is the best camshaft to use? Crower 50227, 50228, 50229, or Elgin (Sealed Power) E364S. Which works best with the turbo?
    Also I need a replacement boot for the clutch rod thru the firewall.

    #15714
    jensenracing77
    Participant

    Sandy, I had a distributor corroded to the front cover one time. It was so bad I ended up braking it trying to get it apart. If that is your problem then be careful.

    oaklyss, I lost track of what one we put in our automatic car but it is one of the Crower cams. I got it from D&D as a kit with the lifters and timing set. His kit number is 50228CK. I am not overly impressed with it but not sure if that is because of the automatic transmission or not. I told him I wanted the closest to stock he could possible get and I fell it is less then stock. I do believe that is partly because it has thicker head gaskets also with the Egge pistons so I know it is much less than stock compression also. Now, the 63 4 speed car I got and sold a couple years back. It had the next level cam (again, not sure what that is) and it was MUCH better. I am sure the 4 speed had some to do with that and also D&D built that engine so I have no idea what the compression was. Not sure any of this helps but thought I would post it.
    My 4 speed car I am using an NOS cam and NOS head gaskets with the original pistons so it will be exactly stock

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