April 6, 2012 at 4:25 pm #7364
Scott, i was thinking of doing that if i couldn’t find a good one. the bad spot is small enough that with some sealer on it and installing it with the hole on top it should be OK. it’s not like there is any pressure on it so i think it would be fine.
Bruce, i already got an intake and extra turbo setup from him. the only reason i got the turbo setup from him right now is because i needed a foot flange gasket and one of his setups had a good gasket. i wanted to get an extra turbo and carb anyway.April 6, 2012 at 8:40 pm #7365JimNoelParticipant
I have had good success repairing the silicone grommet with Permatex Ultra Grey RTV silicone sealer. Clean the grommet squeaky clean then apply the RTV sealer from the inside to the split area. A thin coating works well. Let the RTV ‘cure’ for 24 hours. When installing the grommet to the valve cover oil return nipple, secure with a small white (mine are milky color) cable tie. Cut off excess tail of the tie and turn the ‘knot’ away from view. Use a second cable tie on the upper portion of the grommet to secure the grommet to the tail section of the oil return tube(from the bottom of the turbine housing) also. I had found that the oil return from the turbine housing will make a oily mess, over time, in this area, even with a new or good grommet. The cable ties solved my problems.
JimApril 13, 2012 at 8:31 am #7377
guys, i am happy and sad at the same time right now. i have a once in a lifetime opportunity just come up that i just can’t turn down. i will fill you in at a later date on what it is. that is the HAPPY part. now for the SAD part. it looks like i will have to put this project on hold for a while. i have many of the parts at the machine shop and just took the transmission to the transmission shop. when i get it all back i don’t think i will have time till maybe late summer or fall to put it back together. my wife wants to drive it but she also understands that we just can’t miss this opportunity. it is Oldsmobile related but not 62 or 63.April 17, 2012 at 7:41 am #7378
just got the water pump back. i sent it to the Water Pump Man in Michigan. http://www.waterpumpman.com/ it looks very nice. he used USA made bearings and seals. at least he said he does, i can’t see them. i see more water pump failures in old cars than anything. i think this was OK but i wasn’t going to risk it. i also didn’t want to get one from a parts store because i wouldn’t know where or with what parts it was rebuilt. i am very happy with his service so i just wanted to pass the info on.May 2, 2012 at 6:26 am #7387
i sold my old race quad so i have enough money to finish this project now but my problem is time right now. after i sold the 4 wheeler i got excited enough to at least work on the oil cap tonight.
the center spring clip was broken. i ordered a top hat style oil cap from Fusick and drilled the rivet out of the center. i also drilled out the one on the jetfire. bead blasted the parts and riveted them back together. now for some paint and it will be ready to go.May 18, 2012 at 4:26 am #7399
i called the machine shop and transmission shop tonight. neither one has started on my stuff yet. if i can at least get the engine parts back by the end of June i hope to have it together by the end of July but not sure if it is going to happen.
the reason i had to delay this project is that i bought out a guys collection of Oldsmobile cars and parts. he had 5 cars and many loads of parts for 70-72 cutlass and 442s. the cars i got were 2 1970 442 W-30s, 70 442, 71 442 convertible, and a 71 Cutlass SX convertible. i have to sell most of it but hope to keep one of the 442 W-30 cars and restore it for a future project. i should still be enjoying the Jetfire this fall. we are excited to get it done.June 26, 2012 at 6:28 am #7409
my transmission shop called and told me the transmission was done! he said it was hard finding all the parts but got them all from his suppliers. he said the filter was even NOS GM. i thought it would be between $1000 and $2000 but it came to $680. i think he give me a deal because i bring him lots of business. he is one of the top transmission builders out there.
the machine shop also called and updated me. they have to bore it 30 but the rods and mains will still be standard size. things are coming along real good. i plan to take a week vacation in late July to get most of this back together. i will get more pictures posted soon.July 7, 2012 at 8:46 pm #7410
i have everything but the piston rings. the rings are back ordered. now i have to clean the garage up so i can put this together without getting dirt everywhere. i am going to take a week vacation sometime in the next month and hope to have it done by the end of vacation. i am going to talk to D&D about the cam bearings first. i am not overly happy with how they were done but my machine shop assures me they are fine. after they put the bearings in the block, the cam would not fit. they machined the bearing surface of the cam so that it would fit.July 10, 2012 at 6:32 am #7414
another delay…. i am going to have the cam bearings redone and buy another new cam. i feel like what i have will work but i am going to have it done over. i so badly want to just put it together but i am spooked now. no matter how well it would work, it would always be on my mind while driving it. D&D also said they would not have done it this way. now i will be out another $175 for the cam and however much the bearings are then the install of the bearings. also need to spend time looking for another machine shop to do it.July 10, 2012 at 11:31 pm #741662oldsf85Participant
I did a 30 overbore on mine as well, it’s worked out great. No issues with thin cylinder walls, overheating or any of that (which is a danger if you would go with a 60 overbore, I have heard). One thing I did prior to putting mine together was to “JetHot coat” my piston tops. It only cost about $200 and with the heat the turbo produces, we (the expert that helped me build my engine) thought it’d be a good idea. I read a lot about it at the time, and it seemed like a smart move, especially since the only pistons I could get that weren’t a million dollars were cast and not forged. Also, my particular engine (pre-rebuild)had a piston (#8) which had shattered its skirt and thrown a piece of it through the block. I figured the JetHot coating was cheap insurance…I can look up the company info if you’re interested. They turned it around real quick (like a week if I remember right).
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