62' Olds F85 Cutlass 5 lug conversion and disc break conversion

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This topic contains 30 replies, has 12 voices, and was last updated by  joe_padavano 1 month ago.

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  • #14997

    captiannapalm
    Participant

    this may be taboo, but merc has 4 lug discs for the comet…..Thoughts,

    #14998

    joe_padavano
    Participant

    [quote quote=14997]this may be taboo, but merc has 4 lug discs for the comet…..Thoughts,[/quote]

    Unclear how that helps. Different wheel bearings, for starters. Different spindles. The rotors are the easy part. I have Saab 900 rotors with the same 4 x 4.5″ bolt pattern for the front. They have plenty of offset from the wheel mounting surface to the rotor face and with VW Jetta calipers will clear the optional 15″ factory wheels. I need to see if they clear my 14″ slot mags.

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    #15140

    captiannapalm
    Participant

    Here is a question, that I don’t see answered…. What about the vacuum booster. What sixe ,and where is this get mounted. Second question…..Wilwood has a remote master cylinder…..thoughts?

    #15143

    joe_padavano
    Participant

    [quote quote=15140]Here is a question, that I don’t see answered…. What about the vacuum booster. What sixe ,and where is this get mounted. Second question…..Wilwood has a remote master cylinder…..thoughts?[/quote]

    The car weighs 2600 lbs. Why do you need a vacuum booster? The stock booster was under the dash. You’d need to find one of those if you must have power brakes. I converted my drums to dual circuit using a Fox-body M/C with 7/8″ bore. Original was 1″. What a difference! Pedal force is noticeably reduced. Definitely don’t need a booster. Just be smart about picking an M/C.

    #15144

    mrmexican
    Participant
    #15145

    joe_padavano
    Participant

    That S10 master cylinder has a 1″ bore. Again, you need to really understand the relationship between bore size and pedal pressure and stroke. My 7/8″ bore M/C noticeably reduced pedal pressure.

    Attachments:
    #15160

    62cutlassconvert
    Participant

    I believe that MC is also for power brakes and has a shallow pocket for the actuating rod, manual brake MCs have a deep pocket for that rod. You can make it work but you need to fab up something to prevent the rod from slipping out. There are options for 1” manual MCs, I think I have the same 7/8” as Joe and although the pedal is low it works great. Easy to push and modulate. More discussions on this on the 6163skylark forum.

    #15162

    joe_padavano
    Participant

    [quote quote=15160] I think I have the same 7/8” as Joe and although the pedal is low it works great. [/quote]

    I initially had the same problem with the pedal being low. I somewhat expected that, given the smaller bore needs more stroke to provide the same volume of fluid to the wheels. I then replaced the flex hose to the rear axle (which was original to the car and thus a little scary) and also went through and carefully adjusted the brakes at each wheel. Wow, what a difference. Pedal travel is minimal, and the force is still low. I drove this 2600 miles in June for Power Tour and Homecoming, including some very twisty mountain roads, and the brakes were phenomenal.

    #15198

    62cutlassconvert
    Participant

    Joe you running discs? I have ss flex lines front and rear and pedal is still low. I am running discs up front which does take more fluid=more piston travel. Put self adjuster system on rear and they are working well too. But I live in the twisty Santa Cruz Mtns and the brakes work great low pedal and all.

    Baer makes a 15/16” and 1” MC that is an easy fit, however it’s about $400!

    #15199

    62cutlassconvert
    Participant

    Oops, see your discs now.

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