Home Page › Forums › Discussion Topics – Ask the Experts › 62' Olds F85 Cutlass 5 lug conversion and disc break conversion
- This topic has 36 replies, 13 voices, and was last updated 9 months ago by royalbert867.
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September 22, 2019 at 9:27 am #15203joe_padavanoParticipant
No, I still have the original four wheel drums. I used the Fox body disc M/C. The only difference is that the disc M/C doesn’t have a residual pressure valve in the port to the front brakes. I figured that if that became an issue, I could always just plumb an external PRV into the line. So far I haven’t seen the need for it. My lines are all stock replacement rubber.
December 4, 2019 at 11:20 pm #15990captiannapalmParticipantWhy keep manual brakes….. The whole point to convert to disc is power disc brakes… A hell of alot better stopping power. Its all about making old cars better than new.
December 5, 2019 at 10:50 am #15992joe_padavanoParticipant“Why keep manual brakes….. The whole point to convert to disc is power disc brakes… A hell of alot better stopping power. Its all about making old cars better than new.”
Uh, no. The brakes at the wheels neither know nor care if there is a power booster. All they know is the hydraulic line pressure. You don’t need a power booster to make sufficient line pressure. It’s just one way to get there. Carefully picking master cylinder bore and pedal ratio do the same thing. Manual vs power has nothing to do with pressure at the wheels.
December 5, 2019 at 11:54 am #15993captiannapalmParticipantIt has all to do with stopping power. If manual brakes are so great then why does the D.O.T. require power brakes, and now antilock brakes.. Again its making old cars better than new.
December 7, 2019 at 9:41 am #15994joe_padavanoParticipant“It has all to do with stopping power. If manual brakes are so great then why does the D.O.T. require power brakes, and now antilock brakes.. Again its making old cars better than new.”
You apparently still don’t understand how brakes work. If the pressure at the wheel cylinders is the same, what difference does it make if there is a power booster or not? The wheels certainly don’t know or care how that pressure was generated. The whole point of a power booster is to ensure that Grandma’s feeble legs can provide enough pressure on the pedal. If that’s what you need, have at it. Power boosters do NOT increase “stopping power”. Stopping force only a function of line pressure and piston size at the wheel (yeah, and the coefficient of friction of the brake pads on the rotor or drum). A power booster simply reduces the pressure required at the pedal to generate a given line pressure. There are other ways to do that that don’t require a power booster.
As for federally mandated items, the Feds mandate tire pressure monitoring and a whole slew of other nanny equipment. The actual safety value of that stuff is debatable, but at least it increases the price of new cars. Most of this mandated equipment is Congress appearing to do SOMETHING about a perceived problem, whether it actually makes sense or not. And frankly, I DON”T want an old car that drives like a new one. New cars are insulated transportation bubbles in which I have zero interest.
December 8, 2019 at 8:00 am #1599962cutlassconvertParticipantC’mon , Joe, tell us what you really think.
June 28, 2023 at 5:05 am #17708royalbert867ParticipantThat’s quite an exciting project, converting a 62′ Olds F85 Cutlass to a 5-lug setup and counting disc brakes. It’s a competent upgrade that enhances both safety and performance. While functioning on this exciting changeover, please mention that if you need any aid with your physics homework, feel free to reach out. As a physics enthusiast, I’m always here to provide physics homework help to fellow enthusiasts. Keep up the great work on your car project!
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