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Custom 1962 Jetfire Wagon

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Our first 63 Jetfire

Home Page Forums Discussion Topics – Ask the Experts Our first 63 Jetfire

This topic contains 20 replies, has 5 voices, and was last updated by  jensenracing77 2 days, 19 hours ago.

Viewing 10 posts - 11 through 20 (of 21 total)
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  • #13255

    jensenracing77
    Participant

    I sent you a PM John

    #13256

    jensenracing77
    Participant

    This steering wheel is only temporary till I can find a correct one and in better condition.

    Attachments:
    #13258

    jensenracing77
    Participant

    I was looking through the extra parts I got with the car and found the hood emblem! It needs restored and I have no idea who can do this? The emblem is so delicate I can’t see how they can restore it. Does anyone have a recommendation where to send it?

    Attachments:
    #13262

    macf85
    Participant

    I had one of my emblems restored by Iverson Automotive and he did a great job fixing the pits and re-chroming it. I did the painted parts of it myself. I shopped around and they were the least expensive, Paul’s Chrome was the most expensive at a little over 3 times the cost of Iverson. I got pricing from 3 others that were in the middle. If you email good photos to these companies they’ll give you a rough estimate but you’ll need to send the part to them for examination to get a true cost. It’s a little nerve racking hoping the part doesn’t get lost or damaged especially for parts that are hard to come by. Here’s a link to Iverson’s website if you’re interested:
    http://iversonautomotive.com/Services/Types/Potmetal

    #13263

    jensenracing77
    Participant
    All vacuum and boost gauges work the same with a copper coil inside that expands and contracts, so it should be cheap to get fixed. I have an extra one but it does not work and I am trying to fix it.I think the coils get clogged.

    I believe you are right. I took this one apart all the way to the copper coil and brass. I took all the mechanicals off of it. I held it under water with 15 PSI on it and it was not leaking at all but also not moving the coil. I tried a small gauge torch tip cleaner but it is not long enough. I have the copper coil soaking in carb cleaner now. We will see what happens with that.

    #13264

    jensenracing77
    Participant

    More bugs to work out… I drove it about 7 miles and it turned off. It felt as if it ran out of gas. Showed 1/4 tank. I pulled the fuel bowl off and emptied it out and reinstalled it. I cranked it and it filled right up so it is not likely a supply problem. It ended up starting so I headed for home. A mile later it turned off again. Did this all the way home. The body shop had this same problem when they first got it running. I will have to dig into it deeper and figure out what is going on. When it happens it sure feels like a fuel problem and not completely sure it is not. I will try to run some tests tomorrow.

    #13265

    jensenracing77
    Participant

    You were correct oaklyss. The boost gauge was plugged up. The carb cleaner did not get it so I felt as if I had no other choice. I drilled out the back side where the tube goes into the copper. I tested pressure and vacuum from my new hole and the coil expanded and contracted like it should. I then took a smaller drill bit and drilled into the tube from my new hole I made. It cleaned out the tube and then I could get air through the tube. I then put some heat sink gel on the solder joints of the coil and soldered my hole shut. Now the coil works just like it should. I will assemble the entire gauge back together and see what happens but it should work.

    Attachments:
    #13268

    jensenracing77
    Participant

    I am not out of the woods yet. The coil is working but can’t get the bumper springs to work correct after I assembled it

    #13269

    jensenracing77
    Participant

    Roads were bad so I did not get to do any more testing on the issue of it dying on me. I did pull the speedometer cable out to re-run it. It was laying on the exhaust manifold and melted some of it. I got it fixed and was able to run it proper. Also adjusted the shifter linkage just a little.

    Decided to test the fluid system. The cap works just like it should and the the rest of the check valves and relief valves work like they should. I knew Jim’s part was going to be fine but I was more testing the tank, cap and check and relief valve installations for leaks.

    Still a long road ahead, this car need lots of attention to get it reliable and enjoyable.

    #13275

    jensenracing77
    Participant

    Joe Padavano recommended Qual Krom in Erie, PA for the emblem. I will send it to them and see how it turns out. Not cheep so I am glad I only need one restored.

Viewing 10 posts - 11 through 20 (of 21 total)

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