Forum Replies Created

Viewing 10 posts - 1 through 10 (of 245 total)
  • Author
    Posts
  • #13940

    62cutlassconvert
    Participant

    If you cut the capillary tube and take the valve off it’s easy, which is of course sacrilege. If you want to keep the capillary tube in place on the valve you need to remove the heater box with the heater core as the capillary tube is behind the core and you can’t get it out without removing the heater box from the eng compartment. I other words, a pain in the ass.

    #13939

    62cutlassconvert
    Participant

    The general answer is yes. But of course it depends on how bad the problem and how much money you want to spend to have someone repair it. As the saying goes, “nothing money won’t fix’. I .have a background in the manufacture and repair of commercial circuit boards and a tech can lay down new traces, do jumpers, rivet new terminal connectors /connections, re-solder connections, etc etc. You could try but it’s easy to cause more harm than good, Better idea is to pay a shop who does PCB repair. The boards are simple circuits with no real components and your problems are likely open circuits due to lifting and cracked traces and termination points. The board can easily be tested with a voltage/phm meter and with some magnification you can find the problems. Other typical problem is the main connector pins being loose. A good tech should be able to fix you up.

    #13922

    62cutlassconvert
    Participant

    If you found a NOS one you would probably want to rebuild it anyway since the seals would be dried out. Had mine rebuilt by OldAir. Be careful pulling out the temp sensor, it’s a capillary tube and once cracked or broken it’s done. On the other hand the valve functions perfectly well without this early and not so effective temp control function.

    #13913

    62cutlassconvert
    Participant

    Try DVAP? They should have them.

    #13883

    62cutlassconvert
    Participant

    I run 15 x 6 with 3 5/8′ backspace I think, no problem with 205 65 15.

    #13843

    62cutlassconvert
    Participant

    I believe one of the converts was made in Calif, one in Kansas, and I am not sure where the Jetfire was made.

    #13837

    62cutlassconvert
    Participant

    See, there’s a guy who knows.

    #13835

    62cutlassconvert
    Participant

    I guess Rover may have some stock or similar to stock brackets, don’t know. Highly doubt any of the inside stuff is the same. I don’t think any of the A/C stuff actually goes in the dash in our cars, I think it’s all under dash bolt up, there are those here who know better than I, and I’ll check an original A/C car my friend has.

    Buick Skylark/Special and I guess Pontiac Tempest would likely have parts you could use. Don’t know if interior stuff is the same but probably or very similar. Careful with brackets from the Tempest cause I don’t know if they even came with the V8. Do a posting on the skyLark616263 forum. And post both here and there in the Parts Wanted Classified and keep an eye on Parts for Sale section.

    Also, someone who knows need to answer this but i think there’s more than one type of system?

    #13833

    62cutlassconvert
    Participant

    I have Wheel Vintiques 15″ smoothies in the 4 lug pattern and run 205 65 15s, American Racing also sells a selection of alloy wheels in the pattern. You may want to consider 16″ wheels for more tire selection as we move on. 205 60 16s are about the same diameter, still have a “vintage” sidewall, and there are a ton of them available.

    #13832

    62cutlassconvert
    Participant

    Since you’re not concerned with orig equip why don’t you go to Oldair Products or Vintage Air or one of those aftermarket air guys. They may have something for you.

Viewing 10 posts - 1 through 10 (of 245 total)