62 Cutlass Convert

Forum Replies Created

Viewing 10 posts - 221 through 230 (of 420 total)
  • Author
    Posts
  • #13287
    62cutlassconvert
    Participant

    Also,there is a table of contents at the beginning and you can guess what page you want and go back and forth a little to dial it in by changing the page number up in the browser. Still tedious but a lot quicker than page by page.

    #13220
    62cutlassconvert
    Participant

    Take another look, I think Joe’s answer handles both questions.

    #13215
    62cutlassconvert
    Participant

    Good stuff Jim. Thanks. I’ll report back.

    #13212
    62cutlassconvert
    Participant

    Oh, that is the tube you were taking about. I thought you meant the actual heater hose connection but had second thoughts after I posted.

    Is that an actual capillary tube or just a thick copper wire that transfers heat?

    #13211
    62cutlassconvert
    Participant

    Sounds good Jim. Did you coat the lens and housing with any oil or anything to aid in the release or did it just peal off once you got it right?

    Thanks

    #13208
    62cutlassconvert
    Participant

    I believe you will need to remove the heater box with core in order to remove the valve. It has the temp sensor attached to it with the copper wire that goes inside the box and onto the back side of the core. I had mine rebuilt by Old Air and didn’t get into it so I don’t know if that connection is something that can be disconnected inside the valve, would be nice if it is.
    I guess if you don’t care about the “automatic” temperature holding feature of the valve you could cut the sensor wire and leave it in place while just removing the valve which I believe will function in a fully manual mode without the sensor wire.
    Someone here must know more.

    #13197
    62cutlassconvert
    Participant

    It’s about 3/4″ long and an OD of about 9/16″.

    #13191
    62cutlassconvert
    Participant

    Good going. Congratulations on a unique project.

    #13183
    62cutlassconvert
    Participant

    Here’s some pictures of the bolt for the vertical over-rider. The bolt is a carriage bolt, 1/4″ course with the spacer shown. The bolt slips into the flat sided hole at the bottom of the over-rider, then the spacer goes on, then it contacts the lower valance at the boss and washer and the nut go on the back. Knew I had this somewhere and just found it. Uses a carriage bolt to keep it from turning since you can’t get to the head of the bolt. Should be able to find something that works at you local ACE.

    Attachments:
    #13179
    62cutlassconvert
    Participant

    Mine cleaned up a little over too, in fact they sanded them smooth instead of turning to do the minimum and then they lined the shoes with thicker linings. Work good.

Viewing 10 posts - 221 through 230 (of 420 total)

Recent Articles

Turbo System Safety Checks

Turbo System Safety Checks

The safety components of the factory designed turbo system have some interactive groups of safety "c...(read article)

Engine Front Drive Pulleys

Engine Front Drive Pulleys

The standard drive pulley has one groove. It drives the water pump/fan and alternator or generator. ...(read article)

1961-1963 F85 Car and Option Prices

1961-1963 F85 Car and Option Prices

Attached to this article is PDF file containing an extensive list of car and option pricing for 1961...(read article)

OldsJetfire Forum