[62cutlassconvert]

The 200C was recommended by D&D as the easiest to fit without a bunch of body clearancing. Trans with OD will be nice but will require significantly more changes. Longer means more difficulty in getting the drive shaft to line up without shimming it down more, bigger trans body means more tunnel mods, maybe cutting. Don’t know about the linkage but it will surely be tighter. Will the console fit, don’t know. Get a scrap trans cheap at a junk yard, gut it, keep the linkage detents inside, bolt it up to a engine block, drop it in and out and start checking.

I think someone here has done it and can advise better than me, or check the 6163Skylark site too.

You are on page 4 (or maybe this answer takes you to page 5) of this thread. See the page numbers at the top and bottom right of the thread. Click on 1 to go to the first page and so on.

Good luck

[62cutlassconvert]

See pics on page 2 of the two transmissions. The 200C is attached to the 215 with most of the case relieving done. Had to do more cutting/grinding on the case for exhaust pipe flanges for easy bolt up after that pic. Installed pic shows the TV cable bracket bolted to rear of carb Don’t have any pics pf the tunnel clearancing process, it was a trial and error of fitting the empty mule block-trans combo in and out.

[62cutlassconvert]

The 200C is a 3 spd with lock up torque converter only. It is a lot smaller in diam, shorter, and lighter than the 2004R, making it easier to fit while using the stock console, associated linkage, and driveshaft angle. Don’t know about the Monster bell housing, but a stock BPO bell housing does NOT fit the 215. You need the adpt for a BPO bell housing. The reason to use the BPO housing is it does not stick up on the top mounts like the std GM housing, which makes for less clearancing of the tunnel and the trans housing itself.

[62cutlassconvert]

I saw either here or on the 6163Skylark forum that someone had a posi setup, I didn’t think it was offered.. Unique rear end so you need to get a stock posi setup as far as I know. Don’t know what you mean by upgrade the gear ratio. See your service manual for how to ID what ratio you have, if you want to change you will need to find a good set of gears, don’t believe they are available new.

[62cutlassconvert]

I leave what upgrades and updates to a trusted trans shop and discuss with them what and why. Not much experience with the 200R, I think Monster sells 3 levels and while the base is probably fine I would go for a level II with some of the performance upgrades and strengthening of the orig trans along with a mid range stall TC. Much of what I talk about above relates to the 200C, much more clearancing or possibly cutting/fabbing must be done for a 2004R. Don’t know how linkages, console etc would fit. Be aware the Roto5 has fixed yoke on the output shaft while the 200C and 2004R have a splined slip output shaft so your old shaft must be converted. If you use the orig DS you must then lock in the center bearing since the rubber bushing it sits in just rides loose in the bracket. My understanding is they glue it with silicon! If you build a new shaft the center bearing should be a locked in setup. Regardless of what the switch is, it’s lots of work to go non-stock. I’ll dig up some pics.

[62cutlassconvert]

Trans swap is finished, although we haven’t fine tuned the linkage yet or figured exactly how the exhaust is going to run. You need to make sure the 200C has a BPO bell housing. Trimmed top tabs and did significant clearancing of the trans case itself for exhaust, starter, and to minimize body clearancing. Dropped out the top bolts and one at starter. Would advise to mount the exhaust and starter to see how you have to clearance the trans case. Used an empty trans case with an empty 215 block (without the starter and manifolds) to drop in and out of the car to figure where they both needed clearancing and to make sure angle was right to the center bearing. Goes in and out easy from the top with no heads or exhaust and an empty eng compartment. You MUST have a straight line on the same plane from the output of the trans to the DS center bearing or you will have a vibration.

No cutting of the tunnel or floor was necessary. We pushed it out here and there with a PortaPower and massaged with heat and a hammer. We were able to achieve the stock angle of eng/trans to center bearing with a little shimming.

Used stock floor linkage and floor shifter, but fabbed a simple “Z” bar link on rod ends going from the stock linkage under car to the trans, used a Kugel Komponents #6021 Shift Arm Kit – Long (it’s adjustable at the trans) in order to get the geometry right and make the stock detents match the trans. It’s very tight, will shift all gears with the stock linkage, but doesn’t have a lockout from Reverse to Park so may add a little welding to the stock rooster comb to create a lock out.

Had a new two piece driveshaft fabbed up locally with modern components but if your DS is good you can work with that too and shorten it.

Rear mount cross-member locates differently on the 200C so we used orig and flipped the side brackets, slotted them, and use the manual trans mounting holes in the frame. Moves the cross-member up higher so exhaust going over it will be very tight now, going under means it will be very low so when doing exhaust we may fab up a new cross-member using the stock mounting holes, pretty simple piece if you weld or have a good exhaust shop do it. Gotta check it when we get there. Have a jury rigged hot rod exhaust on it right now using stock manifolds.

Trans works great, clean shifts, using an Edelbrock carb and fabbed a bracket for the TV cable to bolt to out of a joist hanger and a univ TV cable bracket from Summit. B&M lockup controller was bad so had no lockup, they sent me another one and have not installed yet.

[62cutlassconvert]

Yes,thanks Joe, saw those in the Scarebird/Skylark Forum discussion. Gotta go back on there and ask how they worked out. I looked up application on Dorman and although most of the applications are drum/drum there is a manual disc/drum app for a 1976 CJ7. Talked to Dorman tech but they couldn’t add anything to it other than it does not have a residual valve, which is kinda funny since it has a drum drum and disc/drum application. Could always put one in line for the rear brakes I guess.

[62cutlassconvert]

First, I am not an expert trans guy. I just do my research, talk to the experts, and go with what looks like the best option.
When you mention the 200CR is that a typo? I think you mean a 2004R and I’ll go with that here.
Later 700R4 I believe is known at the 4L60 which, based on what I know and see is a great trans and still has the mechanical linkage vs the 4L60E which works with a ECM. I guess the case is a little smaller on the later 4L60, I think this is the one I have heard people call the “baby” 700R4 but I am not positive. I believe the 2004R is smaller than that one but not also not positive. In either case I believe you will have significantly more tunnel mods than a 200C and will need to add a new linkage and driveshaft mods, although you do get OD. I prefer the 2004R 2.74/1.57/1.0/OD vs. the 700R4. 3.06/1.62/1.0/OD with it’s tighter ratios. The 2004R can be built very strong, I think it’s lighter than the 700, and uses less HP. Although not as strong as the 700/4L60, it is plenty strong for our apps. Check out the after market trans sites for more info-Monster, Bowtie Overdrives, TCI. We chose to go with the small 200C 3 spd trans for reasons explained previously.

[62cutlassconvert]

I bought NOS rear axle bearings with retainers from Fusick about a year ago. PNs on the box are #391741 and GR.5.855. The box contained both the bearing and retainer. I think the axle seals are available new. I got a new pinion seal from either Fusick or Kanter Bro. Used my old o ring cover seal.

What is the tag that denotes limited slip, got a picture? Didn’t know it was available on these diffs.

[62cutlassconvert]

Yeah, I agree the 200 and 200C had a bad reputation that was in part at least deserved on the factory units. However, with mods like metal replacing plastic internals, HD clutch discs, improved pump, modified shifting, and other internal improvements It has proven to be an effective and dependable trans in a class of drag racing and hot rods due to it’s small size, light weight, and low HP use.

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