[62cutlassconvert]

The Fairmont MC is just about 7″ from the mounting face to the nose.

[62cutlassconvert]

Very nice. Got the front piece with those too.

[62cutlassconvert]

Looks nice but you still need to know how long it is. I think the corvette MC it references is quite a bit too large. Also, all the pics I see show outlets on drivers side only, this will be a problem if they don’t make passenger side outlets-see pics. The pics show a Wilwood which required some cutting of strut and frame, and two pics of the Fairmont MC which required a re-positioned notch in the frame flange. Doubt if the 7/8″ Fairmont would work with the larger califpers they use on the 5 lug conversion.

Look at the 6163Skylark forum Scarebird Disc brake conversion and lots of other brake info here. Use the Search Forum field at the bottom of the page.

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[62cutlassconvert]

I don’t know the numbers but looks like the later kit shown in some pictures in another thread.

Am I not seeing it or is it missing the other half of the ball seat?

[62cutlassconvert]

Don’t see where you posted the CPP MC. They should be able to tell you dimensions. If it’s small it would be good info for everyone. What’s the PN?

Not sure what your question is on the booster. The booster setup is rather unique in these cars and I would keep it if you have it.If you don’t currently have power I would stay with manual brakes. See your service manual for location and type of the power setup, it’s under the dash with a remote vacuum reservoir under the hood. No room for a booster on the MC as is typical with american cars.

[62cutlassconvert]

I think you’re right. You can do a MC delete with BCCP if you ask. Just be aware the big GM MC they supply will require significant cutting, some other MCs not so much. But you will need a 1″ bore with the 5 lug kit, I thinks it uses bigger calipers than the 4 lug. There is a really nice Baer Racing MC called the ReMaster that fits really good at large $$, and an AMC master that shows a disc/drum app as well as drum/drum, needs a residual valve for the rear drums though. One of the guys in that 6163Skylark forum just installed a Wilwood MC that looks like it required some cutting (has pictures you can see without logging in) but probably better than the GM. Of course, ain’t nothing really turnkey.

[62cutlassconvert]

Damn, here’s the other pic.

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[62cutlassconvert]

OOPS, hit submit too soon. Here’s a couple of pics of the mounted battery. See the bottom “Z retainer” sitting on top of the bottom battery lug. The other side of the battery has a lug that goes under the “hook” on the other end of the batter tray. That white sticker on the side of the battery says SP 22F D6. And the terminals are on the correct side.

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[62cutlassconvert]

Just to be clear there is no top bracket on my battery tray. See the excerpt from the manual that Jim sent. The top bracket type is Jetfire. My rusty tray is all one piece except for the small bottom side “Z shaped retainer” shown in the drawing.

Took a quick look on line at a group 85 and the pics showed no bottom lugs. To use the type of tray I have you must have a battery with bottom lugs. As I noted above I ended up with a 22F which is designated as a Lawn and Garden battery vs the spec’d MT-22F which is NLA.. The only difference is a short guarantee on Lawn and Garden batteries. Works good.

[62cutlassconvert]

They’re just giving that stuff away.

Better check what MC he is supplying cause the one most kits supply will require a lot of cutting of your strut and frame channel. I believe there are discussions here on this and a long discussion on the 6163Skylark forum you should read.

I used a 1980 Ford Fairmont MC at 7/8″ bore, fits nice but I am not happy with the “long” pedal. Various other options out there, some cheap some not.

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