bcroe@juno.com

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  • #10568
    bcroe@juno.com
    Participant

    The 62-63s are a completely different from 64 on. I broke an upper control arm once, notice how weak they are around the fixed bearing. Welding some material around them might avoid outright breaks.
    good luck, Bruce Roe

    #7648
    bcroe@juno.com
    Participant

    That is less than I paid. It should work great now. Bruce Roe

    #7639
    bcroe@juno.com
    Participant

    jensenracing77 post=622 wrote: I have never been happy with the temps this car was running after i got it done. The guy i got it from had just had the radiator worked on and i have the paper work that he paid to have it rodded out. Everything i had going on keeps telling me that i have a radiator issue so i pulled it out and took it to a radiator shop. They pointed out right away that it was way to weak to handle a rod being stuck through it. They said they believe it was boiled out and then a coat of paint and that is all. they showed me where the core is starting to have corrosion coming through the paint that was put on it. Now i am going to have it recored. The tanks are perfect thank goodness. They are getting me a quote for a new one but i am going to have to have it done. With copper prices as high as they are i am sure it is going to be high.

    My Jetfire never overheated, though on a hot day opening the hood was like opening an oven. I hope your fan is at least a 6 blade, a shroud helps a lot. I used an overflow tank on mine. I don’t believe in rodding out a radiator; might as well put in a new core. Lately imported “replacements” are inferior, reduced # of tubes. But for a hefty price, an “extra duty’ radiator can be built that is even better than the original. I got a couple of these in recent times, imported not good enough.
    Bruce Roe

    #7502
    bcroe@juno.com
    Participant

    jensenracing77 post=476 wrote: We ran a full tank of gas through this car with the GPS hooked up. it got 16.7 MPG and was about 50% city driving. it also had some idle time while tuning on it and even a dozen or so times that i stepped on it. i think it will be close to 20 MPG on a tank of strictly highway driving. We are taking it to a car show tomorrow, the last one got rained out.

    My Jetfire NEVER got better than 16 mpg, even with the waste gate held open. The 4 barrel managed 18 to 23, depending on type of driving.

    But the thing it did best was idle. No one in the car could tell if it was running, I knew by the gauges. Guess that compressor did some extra mixing.
    Bruce Roe

    #7453
    bcroe@juno.com
    Participant

    I have primed a few such engines, by bringing up another car. I take out the oil
    pressure switches, connect the 2 with a 6′ high pressure hose, and let the car idle
    for a minute. Check the oil in the 215, when its up a quart, should be done. Spin
    the 215 (no plugs) a bit, and the quart ought to transfer back. No need to take
    the pump or distributor off. Bruce Roe

    #7361
    bcroe@juno.com
    Participant

    Looks like some spare parts on Ebay, couple intakes + turbo. Bruce Roe
    120888514793
    120888515919
    120888516972

    #7336
    bcroe@juno.com
    Participant

    Send us pictures when you get it worked out. Bruce Roe

    #7334
    bcroe@juno.com
    Participant

    Its a pretty difficult conversion I once contemplated. The engine has a
    heavy flywheel since the trans has no torque converter at the engine.
    Perhaps a Buick crank setup can be used, since it used that 2 speed
    with a torque converter. I think I still have that flex plate, its available.
    Then there is still the matter of an adapter plate to mate them. The
    TH400 came with a lot of different bell housings, but I prefer a BOP
    switch pitch version. Bruce Roe

    #7333
    bcroe@juno.com
    Participant

    With all drums, the car really doesn’t need power brakes. Dual circuit would
    be nice. Front discs would make it a lot safer in wet weather; then you need
    the brake booster. Bruce Roe

    #7331
    bcroe@juno.com
    Participant

    I never had any luck with mechanical car clocks. In the 70s I installed a blue florescent digital clock, trouble free and far more accurate. It dims when the lights are on; looked more at home in that square window than a round clock. Had a little trouble getting a complimentary picture of that self illuminated display here. Looked better in practice than this picture. An LED clock with bigger digits would fit the space. The clock set shaft was replaced with a button to illuminate it when the ign was off, but now its on my shop wall and lights with the other lights.

    The other thing of note, is 219,699 miles on the odometer, first one I ever modified. Bruce Roe

    62Speedo

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