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  • #13775

    joe_padavano
    Participant

    It’s pretty easy. Remove the brake drum. Remove the four nuts that hold the retainer plate to the axle housing flange. Slide the brake drum back over the wheel studs with the open end out. Loosely install some of the lug nuts onto the wheel studs, flat side towards the drum. Now use the drum as a slide hammer to pop the axle shaft out. Now is probably a good time to change the axle grease seals also.

    #13758

    joe_padavano
    Participant

    Keep in mind that a larger bore increased pedal force requirements for a given braking force.

    #13757

    joe_padavano
    Participant

    The factory studs are swaged in place after insertion. The CSM tells you to use a cutter tool to machine this swaged part off BEFORE pressing the stud out. Obviously your shop didn’t do this, which is why the hole is now oversized. Simply page through the Dorman catalog and you’ll find studs with larger splines that fit the oversize hole. I did this on my 62 when I converted the driver side studs to RH thread.

    #13731

    joe_padavano
    Participant
    so i dont mess with cutting the shock brace

    Why can’t you use the Fairmont M/C as discussed previously in this thread? Ports are on the side away from the brace. No cutting required.

    #13727

    joe_padavano
    Participant
    Any thoughts of an offset m\c?

    Why do you need an “offset” M/C? I thought we covered the M/C options back in August.

    #13459

    joe_padavano
    Participant

    I might be able to help you out there. The 62 Jetfire parts car has both windows. I’ve also got the complete power window setup for that car. I’ll check the condition of the metal parts over the weekend.

    #13457

    joe_padavano
    Participant

    Eric,

    Yes, the Skylarks are hardtops and yes the glass is the same. Olds restricted the hardtop to the Jetfires, but Buick used it on all Skylark coupes. Of course, it’s just flat glass so any auto glass shop can cut new glass to fit. I got brand new vent window glass for my 62 wagon.

    #13389

    joe_padavano
    Participant

    The 61-62 full size mirror is not the same as the F-85 mirror. The base is different. The mirror for the full size cars sits on the fender peak and thus has a “V” notch in the base. The F-85 mirror has a flat base. The round mirror heads are the same, it’s the base that is different. I bought a 62 full size mirror at Carlisle with the intention of extracting the head and pivot ball from the base and swapping it onto my old F-85 base.

    #13340

    joe_padavano
    Participant
    “I know they are stronger, that’s why I said Without going with rover block. I’m just weird, it has to be an olds block”

    Understand, but I got over that. I’m building a 4.6 Rover block with 300 Buick crank (gets me about 298 cu in) and adapting the Olds heads so it looks “correct”. Hollow pushrods fix the oiling differences to the valvetrain. Looking at using Harlan Sharp Buick V6 roller rockers. Also trying to score a set of the Merlin F-85 heads from England. Big bucks but improved flow and they have the right valve cover rail shape to look like an Olds 215 instead of a Buick or Rover.

    #13336

    joe_padavano
    Participant
    “Just looking for a stronger block without going rover block”

    The later Rover blocks with cross bolted mains and improved casting technology are stronger.

Viewing 10 posts - 1 through 10 (of 71 total)