Reply To: Roto-5 Tranny ……… Your Out of There!!!!!

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#12962
62cutlassconvert
Participant

Trans swap is finished, although we haven’t fine tuned the linkage yet or figured exactly how the exhaust is going to run. You need to make sure the 200C has a BPO bell housing. Trimmed top tabs and did significant clearancing of the trans case itself for exhaust, starter, and to minimize body clearancing. Dropped out the top bolts and one at starter. Would advise to mount the exhaust and starter to see how you have to clearance the trans case. Used an empty trans case with an empty 215 block (without the starter and manifolds) to drop in and out of the car to figure where they both needed clearancing and to make sure angle was right to the center bearing. Goes in and out easy from the top with no heads or exhaust and an empty eng compartment. You MUST have a straight line on the same plane from the output of the trans to the DS center bearing or you will have a vibration.

No cutting of the tunnel or floor was necessary. We pushed it out here and there with a PortaPower and massaged with heat and a hammer. We were able to achieve the stock angle of eng/trans to center bearing with a little shimming.

Used stock floor linkage and floor shifter, but fabbed a simple “Z” bar link on rod ends going from the stock linkage under car to the trans, used a Kugel Komponents #6021 Shift Arm Kit – Long (it’s adjustable at the trans) in order to get the geometry right and make the stock detents match the trans. It’s very tight, will shift all gears with the stock linkage, but doesn’t have a lockout from Reverse to Park so may add a little welding to the stock rooster comb to create a lock out.

Had a new two piece driveshaft fabbed up locally with modern components but if your DS is good you can work with that too and shorten it.

Rear mount cross-member locates differently on the 200C so we used orig and flipped the side brackets, slotted them, and use the manual trans mounting holes in the frame. Moves the cross-member up higher so exhaust going over it will be very tight now, going under means it will be very low so when doing exhaust we may fab up a new cross-member using the stock mounting holes, pretty simple piece if you weld or have a good exhaust shop do it. Gotta check it when we get there. Have a jury rigged hot rod exhaust on it right now using stock manifolds.

Trans works great, clean shifts, using an Edelbrock carb and fabbed a bracket for the TV cable to bolt to out of a joist hanger and a univ TV cable bracket from Summit. B&M lockup controller was bad so had no lockup, they sent me another one and have not installed yet.

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