December 8, 2019 at 5:28 pm #16001
Something don’t add up? If you done nothing to the starter other than remove it and put it back on and then had a problem… The backed it up with another starter doing the same thing, Makes me think something else went wrong. Not sure what else that could be? I assume the engine turns ok with a socket on the crank?
I was thinking about you yesterday. I cut the 4 speed hump out of my 63 parts car and there is no doubt that it was sheered and not torched. So we know of three 63’s sheered and two 62’s that were torched. I wonder if this was a running change in 62 or a difference of model year? Till we see an anomaly from this I would assume it was a year change. I also found that there is a running change for one of the rear suspension brackets in 62.
Gook luck on the starter, Not sure what to do there.December 11, 2019 at 7:25 pm #16003
I bought another rebuilt starter and looked inside it. It has the helper spring behind the Bendix drive that Both my starters were missing. Installed the new starter and motor fired right up. Both starters worked fine before the rebuild. I can only think the extra compression with the rebuild was just enough to overcome the starters. Now to break in and tune.December 12, 2019 at 3:32 pm #16005
Great! Make a video or two if you can. People love seeing them in action.January 21, 2020 at 8:27 pm #16187
My original radiator core has this tag on it and the numbers match the 63 assembly manual. I need to have it rebuilt and put the original side tanks back on it. The radiator shop told me I needed a new core, but this one looks fine.January 21, 2020 at 8:40 pm #16190
I bought new hood insulation from Fusick and used the punch outs to match my original pad. It has the small extra cut out next to the air cleaner (right of the large cut out opening), is this 63 only?January 21, 2020 at 9:06 pm #16194graytoadParticipant
the problem with the rad core is that the lines will all be semi blocked. These cars have a tendency to run hot. You need all the advantages you can get to keep it cool in slower traffic where natural ‘forward movement’ air flow is not there. Get the core done!
Don’t know about the hood liner: post what you find out please!!!January 22, 2020 at 4:59 am #16195
The core is very likely bad like they are saying. Be sure they have the ability to use your old top and bottom rails as well as the original tanks. Some radiator shops can’t do this. My radiator shop can order cores without the rails and reuse the originals. On the one I just had done for my 4 speed car they sent the rails to the core manufacturer and they made the core right to my original rails. I will have to look more into the hood insulation, I can’t remember much at this time and will have to look at my old pictures when I get time. I do remember that that new pad has that little spot perforated to where it can stay or be cut out.January 22, 2020 at 8:45 am #16196JimNoelParticipant
The small cutout in the front of the hood insulator is to allow clearance for the Turbo Rocket Fluid tank cap. This should be cutout on all 1962 and most likely 1963 Jetfire’s too? Someone here should be able to state for sure about a 1963? I do not have pictures of an original 1963 with the insulator shown.January 22, 2020 at 9:58 am #16199
I have not seen a 63 with insulation cut out for the TRF tank cap, only on 62. Funny thing is that the factory masking on my hood for the insulation glue left that area clear of glue.
Jim, the extra cut out I am talking about is about 1” wide and 10” long to the right side of the large cut out, increasing its size. Look at the photo of my original insulation.January 23, 2020 at 9:00 am #16201JimNoelParticipant
I do not know about the 1963 Jetfire hood insulation size. I have just assumed it is the same as the 1962 Jetfire. Someone on our website that also owns a 63 might be able to help you?
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