[63cutlass]

62cutlassconvert, yes that is true with one piece drive line configuration, but a CV joint and center carrier bearing setup, things are set up differently. The first time I have any problems with my current set up, I will go to a one piece driveline. I have modified my upper control arms already, so the pinion angle can be easily changed as needed to get the driveline angles parallel. Having installed different rear springs (stiffer) and having the ride height one inch taller, the problem of the driveline hitting the body tunnel will not be a problem. That’s why the factory used the carrier bearing design in the first place, clearance issues.

[63cutlass]

Joe Well, you are dead wrong in your assumption, have you done this swap, or are you assuming this as a fact? You are right about the front shaft angles not changing, but you have to consider that the front shaft (which is the shorter of the two already) will be even shorter, thus the angle of the joint at the trans end will be pushing the limit for acceptable angle. This becomes even more important because the factory design of the engine/transmission mounting is set at a 6 degree downward slope, not a the 3 degree industry standard. Even if the front shaft u-joint doesn’t move it still has to be in the acceptable range of angle to avoid vibrations. Running the rear u-joint and pinion yoke angle the same, with the CV joint in the middle taking up the slight differences that occur with suspension movement is the best way. After buying two drivelines assemblies and trying three sets of different driveline combinations when doing my T5 swap, that’s what I recommend from experience.

[63cutlass]

When you get your driveline shortened, it’s better to have the back end of the driveline instead of the front end shortened. That way you will partially avoid the acute angles that will arise if the front shaft of the driveline ends up shortened. Also try to set the drive line up so the rear u-joint and differential pinion angle are exactly the same. That’s the important one. Been there, done that…..

[63cutlass]

I have a 215 Buick steel used flexplate I will sell you. The cast Roto5 flywheel can not be machined thin enough to be used as a torque convertor flexplate without losing all integrity and strength that would be required. See my reply on the other Olds board to PM if you are interested.

[63cutlass]

I believe that fig. 5-108 in the manual shows that the shaft is equal in length on either side of the lower arm, It looks like tool J-8808 locates the shaft centered in the arm, but I’m by no means an expert in front suspension work of the 61 to 63s.
As far as getting more positive caster, yes, moving the top control arm straight back by changing how the shaft is centered in the arm, should result in tilting the top of the steering knuckle back, thus increasing the caster. Looking at the service manual, factory caster specs at curb height are -3/4 to -1 3/4 changing to +1/8 to +1 1/8 degrees at full load (4 passengers). Changing that to a positive 3 or 4 degrees at curb height would help a lot in road feel and wandering.

[63cutlass]

I used a new carrier bearing assembly, one where the carrier housing, rubber insulator and bearing are tied together unlike the stock unit where the rubber just slides right out of the housing. I’m keeping the old setup but Desert Valley Auto Parts (623-780-8024) in Phoenix will probably have what you need in their yard. See my latest driveline post where I put up a pic of their partial inventory of 61-63 Cutlass and F85s. Between the Buick Specials and F85s they have at least 2 dozen or so. They ship out a lot of parts every day.

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[63cutlass]

I went to a T5 from an 84 Camaro and had to move the cross-member back a bit, the frame has an extra set of holes that were in the right position for the T5 trans mount. Using a torpedo level across the intake manifold carb base and lifting the back of the trans until the carb pad was level, determined the height of the cross-member mount. If I recall the engine/trans is tilted 6 degrees down when the carb base is level. The mount had to be made tilted because the tailshaft pad is 16 degrees tilted. Ground clearance is not a problem.

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[63cutlass]

Sorry for the late reply, I just got my lift installed in the new garage (wished I had that lift when I put my T5 in), taking under carriage pictures is now a breeze, so I took a few shots of my 63 with duals. The sound is great with the Walker mufflers, a nice quiet rumble at idle but the sound is not at all annoying or intrusive in the cabin at highway cruising. I always say; the little 215 likes to sound bigger then it really is. As can be seen it’s a nice compact installation

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[63cutlass]

2 1/2″ inch pipes would be overkill on the little 215 V8. I used a local muffler shop that made a 1.75″ true dual system that exits right behind the rear wheels with chrome tips. Walker #17910 mufflers are only $19.97 from Summit. They are oval shaped reverse flow and are only 3.25 inches thick, 7.75 wide and 1.75″ in and out. These mufflers will still allow for enough ground clearance.

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