July 13, 2018 at 3:28 pm #13850
Very nice! I like the look of these cars with aftermarket wheels better but I am such a purist that I can’t bring myself to do it. I will have the original 15’s on my 4 speed car when I take it to Homecoming. I just can’t drive it on those because the tires are 48 years old and junk.
I am hoping for at least 10 cars at Homecoming next year.July 14, 2018 at 1:33 pm #13853
There’s a pic of my car (at Rockville, MD) in the site 62 pics a few years back with the OEM 15’s I got from Bruce Sweeter that I run with Diamondback red lines. I run the aftermarket ones in the winter and spring usually – they handle a little better and I don’t have to worry about chips, leftover salt, whatever. I’ll put the 15’s on for the Naitonal in a few weeks. Completely understand as your cars should be kept all original. The original engine on mine was long gone by the time I got it, but the owner had a complete (but destroyed) Jetfire engine I made him throw in with the car that I rebuilt using the machine shop at the local CC. Which is where I probably screwed up the valve guide measurements that induced the recent overhaul. See attached pic of current engine bay. I’m pretty happy with it, though had some difficulty with the paint on the pipe leading from the manifold to the turbo. Spray paint just would not stick. Have had better luck with brushing it on. Though I think, looking at it now, the PCV needs to be black for a ’62. Is that correct? This one came with the engine and I believe it was red or I couldn’t tell. Can’t remember as it’s been a long time since I repainted it.July 14, 2018 at 6:33 pm #13855
Yes, you are correct. The oil filler/breather cap should be black on a 1962, the 1963’s are red. Your PCValve is on the left valve cover. I have had the same problem with the exhaust pipes to and from the turbo unit. The aerosol, high temp, paint will not stick! I have only found the Eastwood high temp brush on paint to last. It has held up on my cars for years.
Your car and engine bay look really great!July 15, 2018 at 5:10 pm #13856
Yes. Breather cap. Don’t know why I said PCV. Interesting about the brush on paint. Aerosol clearly did not work at all. Looked great, peeled like a banana shortly after application. Yeah, looks great and performing terrific. The custom ground cam from Crower was a good idea. Thanks, Jim.July 18, 2018 at 7:24 pm #13857
Phillip Hahn stopped by today and took him and his friend for a ride in this car. We took off from a rolling start and spun the tires going into 2nd and third both and then I let off because I noticed the boost gauge was way to far past the power markings. I did not say anything to them but I now believe I know the reason my turbo was boosting to 8.5 psi the other day. I had tested the gauge and it was at 8.5 psi just past the power side but not much. Today I noticed that the gauge was buried all the way past where I could no longer see it and it popped the red button on the TRF tank. I believe my controller stem or the bypass valve is sticking. I tested the gauge to see where it was when I could not see the needle and it was at 10.5 lbs. I would assume that the boost limit control diaphragm is also bad because it still was boosting after the red button popped. I will no longer boost with this turbo. The only thing I have ever done to this system is change the fluid metering valve diaphragms. I should have known better with it sitting since 1974… I do have the rebuilt carburetor on a red turbo now. I will install this system soon and set this one aside till I restore it and the car.July 19, 2018 at 5:31 pm #13859October 29, 2018 at 7:08 pm #14241
With the restoration of this car on hold from my body guys shop burring down, I have adjusted some of the plans. I built this turbo setup to use temporarily on this car. I took it for a drive tonight and it works very well! I was also testing some thicker fluid metering diaphragms and as I suspected, those will not work. Just not flexible enough and I will have to swap them out. They were free to test and if I could get them to work they were going to be less than $1 each. I figured it was worth the attempt to see…
Now, for the original turbo setup. I am going to get it apart soon and get all the parts recolored. I want to restore the original system and install it back on the car before I pull the car apart. I want to dial in the original system to run as perfect as possible before blowing the car apart so that I am not leaning over newly refinished fenders and painted parts to get it adjusted perfect. After the car is done I want minimal bugs so testing and retesting every component is very important to me. When I done the 70 W-30 this is how I done it and that car had no bugs at all.
During the restoration, I will likely even start the rebuilt engine with the turbo setup on it before installing it in the car. I do this to check for any leaks and any last minute tuning. When the car is done, I want to fire it up and go for a drive, not work on bugs.
This is an original red turbo and the color if off a little from the painted parts. I should have went with a little darker red. It also looks funny on a used looking car.January 9, 2019 at 7:00 pm #14400
I am starting small projects that will later be used on this car. I have this steering linkage I took off of a 27,000 mile parts car and started restoring the parts. I just started playing with phosphate parkerizing and tried it out on these parts. I do not have my mix correct yet so I may have to do these over. I will clean the oil off after a couple days and see what they look like. I fear that the coating is not thick enough and will rust really fast. Does anyone have experience with parkerizing? If so, what are you using?February 21, 2019 at 8:02 pm #14527
Just got the original carburetor parts back from Sparky’s carbs.May 24, 2019 at 6:09 pm #14779
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