Roto-5 Tranny ……… Your Out of There!!!!!

[captiannapalm]

I had a th200 in my 79 monte…its crapped out. I swapped it with a th350.. just saying the th200 isn’t a good trans.

[62cutlassconvert]

Yeah, I agree the 200 and 200C had a bad reputation that was in part at least deserved on the factory units. However, with mods like metal replacing plastic internals, HD clutch discs, improved pump, modified shifting, and other internal improvements It has proven to be an effective and dependable trans in a class of drag racing and hot rods due to it’s small size, light weight, and low HP use.

[911pilot]

One of the reasons Im choice’d with a 200CR or a late model 700 is because the bell-housing adaptor offered by D&D Fabricators up in Michigan can only accommodate these 2 tranny’s. I hesitated with the 700 because of its size,; Im trying to limit the amount of sheet metal/tunnel removal and fabrication and felt the engine is under torqued to benefit with a 700. I thought going smaller is best and Im not planning on racing…..just cruising along Route 66 in the summertime! That being said what are your thoughts on a 1990 or later 700 tranny

[62cutlassconvert]

First, I am not an expert trans guy. I just do my research, talk to the experts, and go with what looks like the best option.
When you mention the 200CR is that a typo? I think you mean a 2004R and I’ll go with that here.
Later 700R4 I believe is known at the 4L60 which, based on what I know and see is a great trans and still has the mechanical linkage vs the 4L60E which works with a ECM. I guess the case is a little smaller on the later 4L60, I think this is the one I have heard people call the “baby” 700R4 but I am not positive. I believe the 2004R is smaller than that one but not also not positive. In either case I believe you will have significantly more tunnel mods than a 200C and will need to add a new linkage and driveshaft mods, although you do get OD. I prefer the 2004R 2.74/1.57/1.0/OD vs. the 700R4. 3.06/1.62/1.0/OD with it’s tighter ratios. The 2004R can be built very strong, I think it’s lighter than the 700, and uses less HP. Although not as strong as the 700/4L60, it is plenty strong for our apps. Check out the after market trans sites for more info-Monster, Bowtie Overdrives, TCI. We chose to go with the small 200C 3 spd trans for reasons explained previously.

[felixjgarcia]

Hello sir I am new on the forum I am interested to know if your trans swap is finished how much floor cutting u had to do? I got a 63 will like to do the swap

[62cutlassconvert]

Trans swap is finished, although we haven’t fine tuned the linkage yet or figured exactly how the exhaust is going to run. You need to make sure the 200C has a BPO bell housing. Trimmed top tabs and did significant clearancing of the trans case itself for exhaust, starter, and to minimize body clearancing. Dropped out the top bolts and one at starter. Would advise to mount the exhaust and starter to see how you have to clearance the trans case. Used an empty trans case with an empty 215 block (without the starter and manifolds) to drop in and out of the car to figure where they both needed clearancing and to make sure angle was right to the center bearing. Goes in and out easy from the top with no heads or exhaust and an empty eng compartment. You MUST have a straight line on the same plane from the output of the trans to the DS center bearing or you will have a vibration.

No cutting of the tunnel or floor was necessary. We pushed it out here and there with a PortaPower and massaged with heat and a hammer. We were able to achieve the stock angle of eng/trans to center bearing with a little shimming.

Used stock floor linkage and floor shifter, but fabbed a simple “Z” bar link on rod ends going from the stock linkage under car to the trans, used a Kugel Komponents #6021 Shift Arm Kit – Long (it’s adjustable at the trans) in order to get the geometry right and make the stock detents match the trans. It’s very tight, will shift all gears with the stock linkage, but doesn’t have a lockout from Reverse to Park so may add a little welding to the stock rooster comb to create a lock out.

Had a new two piece driveshaft fabbed up locally with modern components but if your DS is good you can work with that too and shorten it.

Rear mount cross-member locates differently on the 200C so we used orig and flipped the side brackets, slotted them, and use the manual trans mounting holes in the frame. Moves the cross-member up higher so exhaust going over it will be very tight now, going under means it will be very low so when doing exhaust we may fab up a new cross-member using the stock mounting holes, pretty simple piece if you weld or have a good exhaust shop do it. Gotta check it when we get there. Have a jury rigged hot rod exhaust on it right now using stock manifolds.

Trans works great, clean shifts, using an Edelbrock carb and fabbed a bracket for the TV cable to bolt to out of a joist hanger and a univ TV cable bracket from Summit. B&M lockup controller was bad so had no lockup, they sent me another one and have not installed yet.

[felixjgarcia]

Thanks for the info keep me posted on how it works I am in the process to bring mine to live again it got the roto I have not drive it jet I am working in everything brakes electrical etc yo get to go I am in between a auto or stick swap not sure which way I am going yet chances are will stick with the auto

[911pilot]

I think you solved much of our dilemmas…..glad to hear it!!!!! I am planning on doing the same swap this winter and appreciate all the info you shared. I am looking at the 200R 4 speed at Monster. Can you advise what updates I should have them build into my 200R – Im not worried about the 2 piece DS since Ill have that cut or have a new one built. What about the differential?- can I make it a Pos-i-traction and/or upgrade the gear ratio? Do you have any pics on this project? I’ve never done anything like this and have very limited experience so I will have my hands full, but hope to benefit from your experience.

Thanks.

[62cutlassconvert]

I leave what upgrades and updates to a trusted trans shop and discuss with them what and why. Not much experience with the 200R, I think Monster sells 3 levels and while the base is probably fine I would go for a level II with some of the performance upgrades and strengthening of the orig trans along with a mid range stall TC. Much of what I talk about above relates to the 200C, much more clearancing or possibly cutting/fabbing must be done for a 2004R. Don’t know how linkages, console etc would fit. Be aware the Roto5 has fixed yoke on the output shaft while the 200C and 2004R have a splined slip output shaft so your old shaft must be converted. If you use the orig DS you must then lock in the center bearing since the rubber bushing it sits in just rides loose in the bracket. My understanding is they glue it with silicon! If you build a new shaft the center bearing should be a locked in setup. Regardless of what the switch is, it’s lots of work to go non-stock. I’ll dig up some pics.

[62cutlassconvert]

I saw either here or on the 6163Skylark forum that someone had a posi setup, I didn’t think it was offered.. Unique rear end so you need to get a stock posi setup as far as I know. Don’t know what you mean by upgrade the gear ratio. See your service manual for how to ID what ratio you have, if you want to change you will need to find a good set of gears, don’t believe they are available new.

[Author]

Posts