[bcroe@juno.com]

[postquote quote=17381][/postquote]

What I remember is the big car and Cutlass had a different lock arrangement
on the trunk, one had the lock in the body and one in the lid. I grabbed a
vacuum release cylinder from the big car and managed to fit it to the Cutlass.
There was a round plastic vacuum storage chamber with built in check valve,
small enough to fit on the frame brace coming forward. Ran a hose from that
to a vacuum push-button, very small and fit next to that dashboard secure bolt
at the bottom on the left, receded and invisible. From there a hose to the trunk.

Probably a newer electric could be fitted. good luck, Bruce Roe.

[bcroe@juno.com]

Very nice following the restoration. Reminds me of so many adventures
driving 1/3 million miles behind those aluminum V8s, more than 4 decades
ago. I would have liked it so much better with a 4 speed stick.

One problem I had was a bad leak at the rear of that 5 bolt rocker cover,
the gasket would slip out of place. inside, and it became another (dirty)
breather. My fix was to bolt a piece metal inside at the same level as the
edge, a rail to keep the gasket in place. It was very easy to convert the
alternator to the later internally regulated type, which got rid of the reg
under the hood, and eliminated radio interference in my HAM radio.

Opening the hood on that turbo was like opening an oven, but with the
big radiator and proper overflow tank/pressure cap, it never overheated.

The trunk release on the big Olds was vacuum powered, and I managed
to adapt one to the Cutlass body by mounting it on the opposite edge.

Bruce Roe

[bcroe@juno.com]

Matthew Hudson
mhudson67 posted an update 3 days ago
@bcroe@juno.com Hey do you still do the switch pitch stator switch conversion

+++++++++++
contact me at bcroe@juno.com
Bruce Roe

[bcroe@juno.com]

The 62-63s are a completely different from 64 on. I broke an upper control arm once, notice how weak they are around the fixed bearing. Welding some material around them might avoid outright breaks.
good luck, Bruce Roe

[bcroe@juno.com]

That is less than I paid. It should work great now. Bruce Roe

[bcroe@juno.com]

jensenracing77 post=622 wrote: I have never been happy with the temps this car was running after i got it done. The guy i got it from had just had the radiator worked on and i have the paper work that he paid to have it rodded out. Everything i had going on keeps telling me that i have a radiator issue so i pulled it out and took it to a radiator shop. They pointed out right away that it was way to weak to handle a rod being stuck through it. They said they believe it was boiled out and then a coat of paint and that is all. they showed me where the core is starting to have corrosion coming through the paint that was put on it. Now i am going to have it recored. The tanks are perfect thank goodness. They are getting me a quote for a new one but i am going to have to have it done. With copper prices as high as they are i am sure it is going to be high.

My Jetfire never overheated, though on a hot day opening the hood was like opening an oven. I hope your fan is at least a 6 blade, a shroud helps a lot. I used an overflow tank on mine. I don’t believe in rodding out a radiator; might as well put in a new core. Lately imported “replacements” are inferior, reduced # of tubes. But for a hefty price, an “extra duty’ radiator can be built that is even better than the original. I got a couple of these in recent times, imported not good enough.
Bruce Roe

[bcroe@juno.com]

jensenracing77 post=476 wrote: We ran a full tank of gas through this car with the GPS hooked up. it got 16.7 MPG and was about 50% city driving. it also had some idle time while tuning on it and even a dozen or so times that i stepped on it. i think it will be close to 20 MPG on a tank of strictly highway driving. We are taking it to a car show tomorrow, the last one got rained out.

My Jetfire NEVER got better than 16 mpg, even with the waste gate held open. The 4 barrel managed 18 to 23, depending on type of driving.

But the thing it did best was idle. No one in the car could tell if it was running, I knew by the gauges. Guess that compressor did some extra mixing.
Bruce Roe

[bcroe@juno.com]

I have primed a few such engines, by bringing up another car. I take out the oil
pressure switches, connect the 2 with a 6′ high pressure hose, and let the car idle
for a minute. Check the oil in the 215, when its up a quart, should be done. Spin
the 215 (no plugs) a bit, and the quart ought to transfer back. No need to take
the pump or distributor off. Bruce Roe

[bcroe@juno.com]

Looks like some spare parts on Ebay, couple intakes + turbo. Bruce Roe
120888514793
120888515919
120888516972

[bcroe@juno.com]

Send us pictures when you get it worked out. Bruce Roe

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