Restoration of our 62 4 speed Jetfire

[oaklyss]

Eric, I removed my shift fork boot and it’s the same color as yours. I don’t see any clip holding it to the fork. There are repros that color for early Chevys.

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[jensenracing77]

I will try to get a picture of the clip on the fork end. I am undecided if I will use the NOS boot or reuse the original one on my car. I am leaning toward using the original and saving the NOS for a backup.

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[JimNoel]

A replacement can be made from a piece of pig skin or leather. It looks like you have the rectangle wire with the fingers to hold it to the bell housing, that is good! The clip that holds the material to the fork, if lost, could be fabricated too. Pics of the leather one I made, however, I had the wire frame and fork clip.

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[jensenracing77]

Thanks for the pictures Jim. He has an NOS one now also. I was able to get two of them from my Hawaii friend and one went to Oaklyss. For sure need to save the old one so someone can make a replacement in the future with it.

[jensenracing77]

Still slowly chugging along. Mostly cleaning and phosphating parts but it gets so boring that now and then I have to stop and put an assembly of some kind together. I pulled the insulation off this hood and it has the 147 with a circle around it just like my automatic car did. I will do the same thing before I install the new hood insulation.

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[jensenracing77]

Decided to pull apart the transmission this morning. I found the slightest hint of orange paint still beside the speedometer boss. The orange paint there in 62 means 15 inch wheels and 3.36 rear gears. I checked the end play on everything and all was well within specs. With 44,000 miles I figured it would. I will reuse all the thrust washers as they are. All the bearings are nice and even the synchros are good but I will replace all of that stuff.

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[graytoad]

Wow, just read both of you posts: Found a 4 speed… and this Restoration one! Excellent documentation work Eric. Interested about that Manganese coating you are doing, is that from Eastwoods? Also wonder HOW you successfully removed the trunk liner: I assume yours was glued in too?
Sandy G

[jensenracing77]

I am using Manganese and also Zinc phosphate. I was making my own solutions but couldn’t get it exactly right when I was testing it last winter. I decided to purchase the solution from Anthony Owens aso9592@gmail.com and it is working great. You have to follow the directions exactly. When it says to coat the parts when you are done three time with WD-40 it is exactly right. I tried to get by with only doing it two times and it did not remove all the salts it creates. Here is a video I watched that helped me get started. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ExQguYKaJLg&t=123s

Phosphate coating requires oil to prevent rust and is what the factory used on many parts. Every year or so it is good to touch any phosphate parts with a drop of WD-4. it will sperad on its own. I have been told that after the parts are all done to coat them with Boeshield and it will not require any oil for years. I am doing a test now between WD-40 and Boeshield. I have two parts going to sit outside over the winter and see what happens. I will be in Minneapolis for work next month and will have access to salt spray test equipment and plan to do a little testing there also.

My trunk mat did have some glue in some areas but not much. I still plan to get some original material from SMS Auto Fabrics. From what I understand, there was three different style trunk mad fabric and all of them were somewhat close to each other in appearance. The sample SMS sent me was very close to mine but not exact. I will be using it anyway. My original is just a little to far gone for a high end restoration.

[jensenracing77]

I forgot to mention, The manganese phosphate is the dark gray or black looking parts. The zinc phosphate is a really light gray and is mostly used as a base for paint. The valve covers, air cleaner, and many parts were zinc phosphated originally before they painted them. I would assume that primer is just as good but I will have a few parts powder coated and primer will not survive the oven. The zinc phosphate will. Powder coat don’t have to have anything under it but if rust does start under it, it will grow under the powder coating and will all flake off. The zinc will prevent that from happening.

[graytoad]

SO my car does not have a shifter fork boot. Apparently there was a chunk of one with the clip around the narrow part but no lower section nor a clip frame for around Housing. I guess I will make one. Does anyone have photo of the frame cage that is used to clip it to the opening?

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