I use a 160 degree high flow Robert Shaw style right now. Depending on how it runs in the summer I may switch to a 180. D&D and Evans recommend the 160.

The Robert Shaw style has something like 20% more flow when open than a standard thermostat like a Start.

Make sure the u-joint’s are phased properly. I know that’s necessary but couldn’t explain.

Someone here maybe or a driveshaft shop can explain.

It needs to be balanced anyway at a shop.
They can tell you if the shafts still good too.

Replace your center bearing. The one you can buy new is too loose so it needs to be shimmed tight in the…[Read more]

The weak link is the center cardon joint-an early CV joint arrangement with 2 u-joints and a spring loaded centering ball and socket. If that centering ball and socket are worn/broken you cannot get the vibration out of the driveshaft.

The quick check is that if the joint snaps over center it’s “good” for now. If it just flops around it’s not…[Read more]

I think the mast pulls out of the base. If the mast is snapped off and the base is there I think all you need is a new mast.??

Evans claims the temp often “looks” higher because Evans is actually making better contact with no boiling off of some surfaces. Since it pulls more heat off the surfaces it results in a cooler engine. Pure water with “water wetter” may actually cool better but of course has other major disadvantages for a street car.

I had an initial cooling…[Read more]

Could be. Recommendation is Vasoline not lithium. Factory and TA PERFORMANCE who build the 215 for performance and racing say vasoline.

Fresh system is the best way, otherwise you need to purge the system with a cleaner,also not cheap,and then fill with Evans. You need to call Evans and discuss how it cools better… Seems to work good for me.
They will also make recommendations for your cooling system.
Like I said, some swear by it, some swear at it.

Yeah, use a classic antifreeze designed for aluminum and change every 2 years.
Or, we are running Evans waterless which is expensive, but lifetime, with no breakdown and no corrosion issues with the alum.
You may have seen what neglected water based coolant will do to your eng.

That being said, there are fans and critics of Evans.

Door panels from SMS run about $900. Have to have the seats made up by a local shop from SMS material if you want orig material and pattern, not cheap. The seat upholstery is expensive to have done since they are tuck and roll and it takes more time ($s), you can cheat on it with just stitched seams rather than tuck and droll and ii’s cheaper and…[Read more]

I hope you can do the work including body and paint or you’ll be into it more than it’s worth. Different animal than a Nova. Lots of basic chevy parts including new sheet metal for the nova, not so for the Jetfire.

Completely different car than a 65 442 which is basically a GM “A” body which you can practically build out of a catalog. Different…[Read more]

If you are looking at the end of your stock Roto cable don’t. It’s not standard. The speedo has a stock fitting and the 700 should have a stock fitting like the speedo. It should be a regular old gm cable unless you have some one-off trans speedo housing on the 700. Maybe I’m wrong here but I don’t think so.

Are you putting in a control for the…[Read more]

What’s the problem?

Should be a standard gm cable.. Summit has a few different lengths. You can put a wide radius loop in it if you need to. Not sure where the connection is on the 700 but I used a 55” universal for my 200.

I have my collector cars insured with them so they send me a hard copy mag. Usually has some good articles. Don’t know if it’s available on line. Check their website Hagerty.com.

BTW, if you don’t have hagerty insurance, and perhaps other collector car insurance as well, you should check it out, much cheaper and better coverage.

For the roto?

Got vent window and door for my convert from steele rubber. Vent window seemed a little short on the door overlap. The door strip fit good but did not have the original steel wire stiffener imbedded like the orig. With the stiffener you don’t have to glue, without it you need to add some glue tack points. Checked with metro and their’s is the sam…[Read more]

Got a new harness from M&H and it fit perfect. They had to use my fuse block with all new connectors, instrument connector and cigar lighter fuse holder so I sent my original harness in too. It was not part of their existing catalog but they had the GM blueprint and they made it to that. Nice new flexible wire and bright connectors, all stock. My…[Read more]

Do you have any front and or rear turn signal/tail light gaskets?

Very happy with start up and running with my rebuilt points dist. It is also now tailored to the engine which runs cooler and has better performance because of it. When Pertronix fails you stop, when points go south your car runs crappy and you get home. More than one owner that runs an electronic conversion carries the old points dist in the…[Read more]