I run 15 x 6 with 3 5/8′ backspace I think, no problem with 205 65 15.

I believe one of the converts was made in Calif, one in Kansas, and I am not sure where the Jetfire was made.

See, there’s a guy who knows.

I guess Rover may have some stock or similar to stock brackets, don’t know. Highly doubt any of the inside stuff is the same. I don’t think any of the A/C stuff actually goes in the dash in our cars, I think it’s all under dash bolt up, there are those here who know better than I, and I’ll check an original A/C car my friend has.

Buick…[Read more]

I have Wheel Vintiques 15″ smoothies in the 4 lug pattern and run 205 65 15s, American Racing also sells a selection of alloy wheels in the pattern. You may want to consider 16″ wheels for more tire selection as we move on. 205 60 16s are about the same diameter, still have a “vintage” sidewall, and there are a ton of them available.

Since you’re not concerned with orig equip why don’t you go to Oldair Products or Vintage Air or one of those aftermarket air guys. They may have something for you.

Did you try M&H Wiring Harness? Don’t know if it’s in their catalog or if they will do custom again, they got too busy for a while to do custom.

Yeah, I know, gotta accept the “vilntageness” I guess, still a little disappointing there’s so much shake. Had some early 60s Alfa converts that were unibody with frame stiffners and they were good as I recall. The Etype is a hybrid, full unibody with very deep sills firewall back with the front end a tube frame bolted to the firewall so I see…[Read more]

Oops, sorry, looked too quick. Cutlass only has one nipple.

Looks like the one on the Cutlass.I think angle of nipple is same but not sure. Heater return fitting on back of intake.

I was afraid of that.

So pretty normal for these cars I guess?

I have had convertibles in the past, including american cars, and have a ’62 Jag convertible now and none have the amount of Cowl Shake, which involves considerable steering wheel shake in this car, as is present here. And it is a really tight car in good condition. Too bad,…[Read more]

I don’t know but I will say the automatic crossmember slides forward and mounts up to the forward manual trans bolt holes.

The one on my 62 looks just like that but it has an original bolt clamp on the end. Same on the 62 jetfire and other cutlass convert we have. The converts were last registered in 1971 and the jetfire in 1984 I think, so I believe them to be orig cables. The clamping end is orig to the cable and not a later addition.

I told my machine shop to change studs to rht and they took care of it, NBD. They should be recommending the solution if there’s an issue, they are the experts.

Yes, long pedal, works good.
If you want get a Baer Racing “Remaster” MC. It’s short, ports on both sides, comes 15/16, 1″ , and 1 1/16″, billet alum, in colors, no brainer fit, larger bore will shorten pedal, and it’s about $400.

I believe RareParts has both. Web site is being upgrades to you need to call. Stockton CA. Buy through a shop if possible and get the good pricing.

I now have driving time on my Fairmont M/C with manual brakes and disc conversion up front, same M/C as Joe’s, and although it’s a long pedal I find it very acceptable with easy modulation and good stopping. No brace cutting needed, slight movement/grinding of the current relief for the M/C in the unibody frame flange, NBD.

Yeah, lots of various stuff.

They show a Driveshaft-“Factory Rebuilt” exchange only, 61-75 All ex Station Wagon and then a Station Wagon application too for $319.95.

Wonder what that means-does it include the elusive inner cardan ball joint?? Or just new ujoints.

I had to disassemble my front control arm bushings and chip the grease out. I could not get them to take new grease at all. So I would be wary of driving it if on injecting new grease it did not displace what was in there and gush out. Ball joints and other grease areas same issue.