Congratulations on a special car, very nice.

Beautiful job Jim.

Regarding your gas gauge, you may now know this but there is no wire “directly” from/to the gauge. I replaced my harness a while ago but as I remember it is configured like this. The gauge is connected directly to the dash circuit board which then has a “trace” or circuit on the board which goes to the pin connector on the board which the main…[Read more]

That is the concern I have. Although I have no doubt that when pushed these cars understeer as was common in the day and I believe reported in contemporary road tests. The rear bar should help that but I am concerned that a 1″ bar might be too much and make it rear end happy. Good point that it may be bigger but the mounting and character of the…[Read more]

Thanks for getting back, just saw your response. I have been in contact with ADDCO and they are making a new “anchor plate” (their term) for the bar to a simple modification I gave them-essentially extend the bottom end of the plate by 2″ so it bridges the entire bottom of the arm. Once I get them I may grind or cut them to fit the contour of the…[Read more]

Hi Jim,

Is it possible to forward my questions to Ken. Not sure if he is on this site.

Thanks

Thanks Jim, That looks like my ADDCO bar and install kit. Was concerned about it hanging out like that. Ken, how it it work out? Also, was the 1″ rear bar too much?

Looks like you got some good responses and you may have better measurements in those but I finally made it to the shop and here are approximate dimensions-tank is in car. 5.5″ at front(axle) end with a final taper to 3″ at the rear (bumper) end.

I’ll be at the shop tomorrow. My car is on jack stands with the tank in it. I’ll get the best measurement I can with it in the car. I’ll respond tomorrow afternoon-I’m in CA. You might check Desert Valley Auto Parts, they have some 62’s that might still have a tank.

Looks like color code V V for body color and wheel color. Check your firewall ID tag.

Thanks, I have sent a PM to you on the Classicolds site.

I know what you’re talking about. I just cleaned mine up and waxed them but also noted that gray paint had worn off. You probably already checked Eastwood since they have lots of that kind of product?

Although I don’t think I need a rear end swap at this time, car isn’t on the road yet and the internals look good, I keep hearing how weak they are with lack of parts. Friend and I each have 62’s, cutlass and a Jetfire, and the shop is restoring another jetfire so availability of a good common rear end that would be a turn key bolt-in sounds like…[Read more]

Thanks for jumping in on this issue-lots of views but no answers. Yes, the lower shaft is to be centered-ie same exposed length from the boss in the subframe to the end of the shaft on both front and rear positions-manual says about 1 11/16″ from the boss to the end of the shaft both front and rear. But I believe once the shaft is installed in a…[Read more]

Will post the results of my front disc install when I get it done. Might be a little while. Right now I am getting ready to pull and replace the springs and check the ball joints. 1″ lowered springs from Detroit Spring are going back in. A little paint on the spindle… and then the disc brakes go on.

That Fairmont MC is much smaller than the…[Read more]

Bens Classic Car Parts, BCCP, has a turnkey kit for sale with either 5 lug front hub or 4 lug front hub. He also sells a 5 lug rear axle and I believe 5 lug drums for the rear. It will turn out more expensive than Scarebird but it is turnkey. You can have Moser or someone make a 5 lug rear axle for you from your orig as a sample. No one would…[Read more]

Thanks for the info and the new pic, looks good. I have another post where I am looking for the center driveshaft bearing carrier collar. Did you find a new one or use the old?