I have a good original door mirror like the picture in the first post, but the glass is broken out. Did I see somewhere there was common aftermarket mirror with the right size glass that could be removed and glued into the 62 F85 mirror?

Glass shops can cut mirror for it but it’s not “automotive non-glare mirror”, they say it diffuses headlights…[Read more]

Looks good Jim. Wish I could get there. Yeah Mac, that’s the stuff I was referring to, I had done a quicky but I need to take some more time. May cut my losses and go with the foam, like the look of that RTV though.

Man, everything sticks to both the alum housing and the lens like crazy. Would never be able to get it apart and I only have one good lens to work with. Tried RTV and regular Permatex Silicon sealant and same result. Tested a small area using veggie oil and while it helped on the release it wasn’t reliable for release and if I have the whole…[Read more]

Also,there is a table of contents at the beginning and you can guess what page you want and go back and forth a little to dial it in by changing the page number up in the browser. Still tedious but a lot quicker than page by page.

Take another look, I think Joe’s answer handles both questions.

Good stuff Jim. Thanks. I’ll report back.

Oh, that is the tube you were taking about. I thought you meant the actual heater hose connection but had second thoughts after I posted.

Is that an actual capillary tube or just a thick copper wire that transfers heat?

Sounds good Jim. Did you coat the lens and housing with any oil or anything to aid in the release or did it just peal off once you got it right?

Thanks

I believe you will need to remove the heater box with core in order to remove the valve. It has the temp sensor attached to it with the copper wire that goes inside the box and onto the back side of the core. I had mine rebuilt by Old Air and didn’t get into it so I don’t know if that connection is something that can be disconnected inside the…[Read more]

It’s about 3/4″ long and an OD of about 9/16″.

Good going. Congratulations on a unique project.

Here’s some pictures of the bolt for the vertical over-rider. The bolt is a carriage bolt, 1/4″ course with the spacer shown. The bolt slips into the flat sided hole at the bottom of the over-rider, then the spacer goes on, then it contacts the lower valance at the boss and washer and the nut go on the back. Knew I had this somewhere and just…[Read more]

Mine cleaned up a little over too, in fact they sanded them smooth instead of turning to do the minimum and then they lined the shoes with thicker linings. Work good.

Jim, don’t like to contradict you here, but my convertible is definitely an original convertible and has a Paint code of V V. Not looking it up right now but I think I saw where the first V was body color code and the second V was wheel color code. It also has V V in factory chalk marking remnant on the inner fender. Picture of my tag is…[Read more]

Significant savings if you can somehow buy as a shop. Also check Amazon, they are a re-seller at less than retail noted on Rare Parts site.

I could be wrong but I thought some cars had press in and others thread in? Anyway, just checking Rare Parts they have upper and lower thread in and upper press in.

If you are talking about an option to purchase at Rare Parts web site it is there but requires several clicks to get there. Give them a call and they will walk you through it and to…[Read more]

Ball joints are either press-in or thread-in. Go to RareParts.com for pictures of both types. Commonly available at a variety of locations. In a plug for Rare Parts, they make their own premium parts in Stockton CA, have very good quality, and are very responsive to problems or needs. They will custom mfg as well.

See page 2 of this thread for a brief discussion of the 60 degree 700.

A good exercise when planning a swap is a trip to the junk yard to check your options out for size and your application. Nothing like a laying on of hands.